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  #21  
Old 12-15-2016, 04:46 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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I had the same problem with the fin - I bought the Hitachi saw and had EZ mount it on the base, the fin is out of line with the saw kerf by more than it's thickness. EZ was looking into the problem but I never heard back from them. Not a problem I guess as the saw is only used on the UEG, and only horizontally, so the lack of the fin hasn't bothered me. The attached photo shows how much the kerf was misaligned from the kerf - I cut into a scrap of plywood, stopped when the fin hit the end of the plywood and took the photo.
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File Type: jpg IMG_2316.jpg (95.8 KB, 20 views)
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  #22  
Old 12-15-2016, 04:55 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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The open grid is very well suited to the UEG as you can clamp the back edge of the plywood through the grid. As the piece of plywood gets narrower - to the point that the arms of the UEG may hit the clamps, just put a second piece of plywood on the grid and clamp it in place, butt your piece up to it. You can also clamp a short piece in the front to stop your plywood being pushed forward off the grid. Even with a whole sheet of plywood, there could be enough lateral force from the fence of the UEG to push your part back on the grid so clamping is always a good idea.
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  #23  
Old 12-15-2016, 04:59 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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Yep, mine looks like that too, but I took it off
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  #24  
Old 12-15-2016, 05:01 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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I will have to look into a grid system, any designs better than any others? Maybe something I can use the system to make...
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  #25  
Old 12-15-2016, 06:54 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Use a brass screw.

With the anti-chip edge in both slots of the the track clamp the track down to a solid surface, masking tape the ACE to the table, set your saw cut depth to just cut through the ACE and into the table a little, cut with the rotation of the blade (opposite the normal cut direction).



Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
There is a picture of my table about 4 messages back. I took the top off of it and have been cutting on the remaining framework, and yes into the wood as well. I have a top for it which is a double piece of MDF which I may be putting back on because it seems like I am not gaining much with the voids and I don't mind scarring the MDF. I took it off initially because I figured I needed holes like the guys with the grid systems have to allow for the clamps, but I have been trying to do things, like using the "cabinet maker" and the UEG which don't require the clamps, though I have had to use them anyway so there's that.

I thought maybe I needed more support so I actually setup and cut on the edge of the frame which introduced Mr Blade to Mr Screw with some pretty sparks, hopefully that will be ok.

I have finished the book shelf which had to be done last night so my wife could paint it and do her part before taking it up to my daughter, having ultimately go to the table saw to finish one of the pieces because I lost all confidence in the system at hand. Now that I am not under any time pressures I can setup and cut all the test pieces and run whatever test cases necessary to get this thing to cut with some confidence.

First thing I have to do is figure out how to successfully cut the anti-chip strip. I have messed up 2 of them so far and have more on the way. I can't imagine it should be so difficult to do, but I guess if it can be screwed up, I am the one to do it Any suggestions? I seem to get so far through the process when it gets grabbed and ripped by the blade leaving either a not-straight edge or a too small cut edge such that it doesn't rest against the blade when the saw is just sitting on the track resulting in a strip that can't effectively be lined up to a pencil line to cut with.

I am open to all sorts of suggestions, I like the anti-slip matt as well as the screw idea. Anything else would be appreciated. The frustration level is getting high, I am sure the time pressure didn't help matters much either. But now I am under no pressure and I can simply make lots of big wood into little wood in the hopes of tuning this thing and gaining confidence before I undertake a real project that I care about.
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  #26  
Old 12-15-2016, 09:33 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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So do I have to cut a groove in the wood before I cut the ACE? When I did that the last time I found it exceedingly difficult to line up the strip again.

I talked to tech support and I will be getting a couple more strips soon. Hopefully with some tape and great care I can get one of them cut properly.
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  #27  
Old 12-17-2016, 09:13 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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EZ has an instruction sheet for making the initial cut on the ACE

http://www.eurekazone.com/v/vspfiles...s%20v14-01.pdf

If you follow the instructions, and use a nice clean blade (and this blade should be kept on the saw and use with the track and this ACE), you should wind up with a nice clean edge.

As it states, tape down the ACE to the scrap piece that you're using. Set the cut depth so that you are only just cutting into the wood - you should wind up with a very minimal kerf depth.

Start with the saw at the opposite end of the track and feed the saw backwards - you're really not making any kind of cut into the wood so this shouldn't be a problem. If you're concerned, practice a couple of times with the saw OFF and the blade not touching the wood. Try to feed the saw smoothly with no stops and starts and you should be OK. Check on the web site, I thought that there was a video that showed this method.

If you're concerned about cutting "Backwards", cut in the normal direction but stay with taping down the ACE, the shallow cut and the smooth, steady feed.

All of these points are covered in the EZ instructions.
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  #28  
Old 12-17-2016, 07:52 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
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So the thing I used before this system was 2 pieces of offset plywood connected together. Once the saw was run through it the end result was a blade side antichip edge. I am sure everyone has used something like that at one time or another. Why is the one on this system so small and thin? Has anyone considered a full thickness equal to the track thickness edge that could be cut through in the normal direction and such? I am sure I can't be the first person thinking of this.
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  #29  
Old 12-18-2016, 02:21 AM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Don't cut a groove in your material first.
I think the idea of the thin ACE is that the its flex pushes down on the wood to help resist chipping.
Dik made full thickness inserts, to replace the ACE, out of pvc. Search the forum. Others have gotten rid of the ACE completely and replaced it with a block attached to the saw base. Again search the forum.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
So the thing I used before this system was 2 pieces of offset plywood connected together. Once the saw was run through it the end result was a blade side antichip edge. I am sure everyone has used something like that at one time or another. Why is the one on this system so small and thin? Has anyone considered a full thickness equal to the track thickness edge that could be cut through in the normal direction and such? I am sure I can't be the first person thinking of this.
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  #30  
Old 12-18-2016, 08:13 AM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
So the thing I used before this system was 2 pieces of offset plywood connected together. Once the saw was run through it the end result was a blade side antichip edge. I am sure everyone has used something like that at one time or another. Why is the one on this system so small and thin? Has anyone considered a full thickness equal to the track thickness edge that could be cut through in the normal direction and such? I am sure I can't be the first person thinking of this.
As Sean mentioned, some of us have dispensed with the Anti-Chip Edges (ACEs) altogether and have devised alternative ways to achieve the non-splintering result, as well as precision layout capabilities.

Pic one shows a saw insert (old-style, black one) with a piece if 1/2" baltic birch attached to it. This takes care of the anti-chip/splinter issue.

Pic three shows a simple marking gauge to line up for the cut. The bent wires are sharpened to a point; one marks the right side of the saw blade, the other one marks the left side of the saw blade. The bent wires are adjustable to account for different saw blade that might be used on the saw.

Use is fairly simple: set the marking gauge on the EZ track; move the track to where the gauge lines up with the desired cut line; clamp track in place; repeat at the other end of the board to be cut.

To make the set-up procedure simpler, make an adjustable story stick. Once you have one end of the EZ track set on the cutting line, set the story stick from the edge of the wood to the edge of the track, and mark the story stick. Move the story stick to the other end of the wood and bring the track over to abut the story stick; fasten the track and you should now have the track set parallel to the wood. If you have multiple pieces, all the same width, to be cut, use the story stick to set the track on each piece, and they will all be set the same.

HTH,
Rick
Attached Images
File Type: jpg saw base- modified insert.jpg (104.4 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg indexing jig- far end of taper cut.JPG (88.7 KB, 30 views)
File Type: jpg marking gauge 1.jpg (103.4 KB, 27 views)
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