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Old 08-21-2009, 08:08 AM
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Default Kirk Smith

What I would try is :
- Take the saw off the smart base, cut few pieces using the saw only, no rail no base. If the cut is smooth, then there is no problem with the saw.
- Put the smart base back and make the cut with the rail. If you still see the blade mark, try to play with the smart base to see if you can eliminate the saw mark

This is exactly what happened to me. I had the roybi, then brand new Makita 8 1/2. Took me a while to figure out how to test it. Both of my saws is perfectly ok without the rail and smartbase. I spent lots of time trying to figure out the problem, and adjust the smartbase until I can minimize the saw mark. But I can never have the smooth cut as without the rail. It's ok, I still can use the ez system for something does not require perfect cut.

I have tried the Makita track saw. I can make the perfect cut without playing with the system. and now waiting for my order to arrive my home. Sorry guys, I like the "turn key" solution.
Old 08-21-2009, 08:09 AM
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Default Kirk, that is exactly what I did today... - Denise Ohio

I didn't even remove the smart base. I had a bunch of cross-cuts on maple to do. First, I tried using a short rail, but then said to hell with it and just cut them off the rail.

The Makita 5008 is a great saw. I didn't even mind getting sawdust in the face from that EZ dust port. The 24T blade went through 4/4 bigleaf maple like butter, leaving me a nice cross-cut edge.

So I think the saw is fine (though Burt got me with the defectivity comment, so I ran out and tried moving the blade as soon as I read his post).
Old 08-21-2009, 08:10 AM
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Default Dik, that's a good quest - Denise Ohio

The tooth marks appear at the top of the cut.

I replied to Kirk that I tried crosscutting 4/4 maple off the rails and the saw performed as I expected. So I don't think the saw is working that hard. But I am often wrongheaded.

I'm thinking I need to try the blade swappage as Burt suggested and start measuring and see what the smart base is doing.

Flex in the blade. That's interesting. Do you think this is specific to an 8-1/4" blade? Perhaps a limitation of the overall EZ design?

You know, I can get out my Big Foot (nickname "Monster") and see what kind of edges I get with it. If there's an inherent design limitation re: blade size, then surely it would show up on a larger blade like that on Monster. I don't recall seeing problems before, but the prototype smart base Dino created for Monster broke* after one day and I never got to test it thoroughly.

(*The black plastic of the smart base expanded in the direct sun of a very hot July day, enough to bend the saw's base, and cracked in two places where the smart base screwed into the saw. I still have the bits. I ordered a new gigantor smart base for Monster that I have to put on, but I bet I could epoxy the original base back together. Huh. I just thought of that. Sometimes I am very dumb.)
Old 08-21-2009, 08:11 AM
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Default Dik Harrison


From your responses, I would guess that the slot in the base is not perfectly aligned with the blade. The result of that would be either the front teeth or back teeth are cutting a little off the line of cut. That is why I asked which way the marks curve. I think that is what is wrong with my Worx, I just haven't spent enough time futzing with it to get it adjusted. My guess is that mine is a little closer at the back of the cut, because my marks curve to the front of the cut, thus made by the following teeth.
Old 08-21-2009, 08:12 AM
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Default Randal Stevenson

I don't think it is specific to larger blades. Flex is a big part of why Dino designed/built his smart table. Here a while back (it is in this forum somewhere, more then a year ago), I was using my 7 1/4" saw, and caused myself to pinch and flex the blade. It pinched it to the point the blade spun loose under the nut (had to be retightened).

In that case, I would look for anything that could cause the material to pinch the blade. Screws, nails, scraps, etc. riding under the plywood and forcing it up and into the blade (would end up with not square edges as well).
Old 08-21-2009, 08:12 AM
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Default Kirk Smith

I hope you will have better luck than I did. I always want to support ez products, I still think the products are innovative. But for a little guy like me, with small budget and time. I have spent enough money to test out the rail and smart bases. I order the second rail because i thought there were something not right with the first rail, then buy another smartbase, then another saw... it kept going until I know that I am running out of budget and time to hack on this stuff. So I bite the bullet for the makita track saw (I want festool but it is too expensive). It costs much more but now i know i can make a smooth cut without worrying about anything else.
I hope the ez stuffs will be easier to configure and use in the near future.
Just got my makita track saw today, and i am on the roll already. Test it on all kind of woods from soft to hard, to extremely hard (Brazilian red wood), always have smooth rip and cross cuts. I am happy now.
Old 08-21-2009, 08:14 AM
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Default Dino Makropoulos

Hi Kirk.
You never stopped from the restaurant.

The Makita plunge saw is much better than Festool and Dewalt.
More power and easier cut. Good choice and good luck.

The results with any rail system and saw is all about the alignment of the blade to the track.
Other major issues are arbor/ blade flex and adjusting the saw for 90 degree cuts.
( with the ez system you have to adjust the blade ( for 90 ) with the smart base and antichip insert installed )
There is no "turn key system" outhere.

The fact that you paid less than Festool and you're happy is very good review for the Makita track saw and I agree with your findings.

I want you to know that spending more is not always the answer for better results.
Power is the first feature for any saw and tool in order to have better results.
If the motor is very strong the cut is easier and better.
If the motor is underpowered, you're forced to spend a fortune in blades just to make a cut.

I tried the Makita plunge saw once but I don't paid attention to the blade.
What size and type of blade comes with the saw?
Old 08-21-2009, 08:16 AM
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Default Kirk Smith

Hi Dino,

You think I still have enough money to go to your sister's restaurant ? The hardware stores suck all my bank accounts empty. That is including your company .

There is no argument in EZ system, like i said in the previous post, I like it and still like it. Yet, because it is so flexible, there is no 'turn key' for EZ system, and i happen to be the one that is not be able to get the good result. My suggestion is the ez system can come up with some gadgets to help the users (both new and experienced) to setup the system. Everyone know the principle of 90 degree setup for the blade with rail , etc... But how to make it works correctly involves too many variables. I did buy all the gadgets to measure the squareness, you name it, i have it. If EZ system can come up something for the user, i am the first one to buy it. There were lots of wondering and frustration during the setup process as i remember.

Anyway, choosing the makita track saw was not my first choice, but i don't want a table saw and don't have much money for more expensive tools. And makita track saw has not have many gadget to go with compare to EZ system, the only thing it gives me is the smooth cuts.
I still want to see EZ system come up with something here. You invented the tools, you can make it better too. You know that the bottom line is having a smooth cut bring big smile to users.

For the makita track saw blade, it is 6 1/2 48T on my saw.
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