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  #11  
Old 12-30-2014, 09:36 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Originally Posted by protective1 View Post
tomp913 - not sure I can picture what you're describing. Do you have a sketch or photo you could post?
Here's a very rough sketch of what I was trying to explain, it would just need two holes drilled through the saw base. I'd originally said to use a leveler but a carriage bolt would work just as well and more likely to have one lying around.

A miter saw is definitely the way to go when installing trim; as mentioned, you have the ability to easily "tweak" the miter when the standard 45 doesn't fit. Coping joint takes a little practice, although it's easier to learn on base molding rather than crown. If you're planning to do a lot of coping, you may want to look at the Collins Coping Foot. It takes a little practice but you can really knock the copes out once you learn how.

Tom
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  #12  
Old 12-30-2014, 11:46 AM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by protective1 View Post
However, it does take a long time to do the coping by hand - maybe just due to lack of experience?



Rick - are you using EZ parts to make your outrigger? If so, do you have a parts list and / or assembly instructions? Or are those parts I could make or get at a hardware store?

I appreciate everyone's videos and photos. Does anyone feel like posting a diagram showing how to make their outrigger? It looks like you guys have put some good thought into your current designs and I hate to reinvent the wheel.
Yes, coping joints does take a bit longer, but, it goes faster, the more you practice. Plus, when done carefully, it gives the best results possible.

Re. making outriggers: the principle for any variation on the theme is the same: moveable 'arm', attached firmly to the saw base, w/a 'lip' that hooks into the side groove of the EZ track.

Pic one shows the set-up on the main saw I use on the EZ One: custom moduni base, utilizing some EZ T-track and a bit of track connector. The track connector slides in the T-track and has a threaded stud in the topside, to allow a clamp-down knob; on the end of the track connector is screwed a piece of aluminum "L", modified/adjusted to fit the EZ track side groove.

Pics 2 and 3 show a version utilizing stuff you might already have lying about the shop: couple of bolts/nuts/washers, and some scrap wood. Pic two shows the saw on it's EZ base, w/a bolt thru the bottom, recessed so as to not interfere w/the saw base sliding smoothly on the EZ track. Over that bolt, is a slotted piece of Baltic Birch ply which is clamped down w/a threaded thru-knob (a simple nut would work also). At the end of the slot is another bolt, w/some spacers (wood/washers/whatever) to allow a large washer to be a 'lip' that engages w/the groove on the side of the EZ track. Pic three shows the 'lip' end of the Baltic Birch.

Rick
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Last edited by bumpnstump; 12-30-2014 at 11:48 AM.
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  #13  
Old 12-30-2014, 02:03 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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I think Rick needs to be running EZ's Good Ideas We Need to Make Department
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  #14  
Old 12-30-2014, 04:21 PM
Chad_C Chad_C is offline
 
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After all these years, I can't believe that EZ has not come up with a better system for cutting bevels. Why do guys like Bumpnstump (love the ideas he comes up with) have to come up with our own solutions for this kind of stuff?
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  #15  
Old 12-30-2014, 07:33 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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My feeling has always been that EZ was developed primarily to cut 3/4" material to make cabinets. Panels for the boxes and thin stock for face frames. Square cuts in 3/4" material. Not much need for bevel cutting making cabinets. So things like DOC and bevels weren't a big priority. Not sure what's happening with EZ now under new management but new features don't seem to be on the list.
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