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  #11  
Old 04-30-2018, 04:59 PM
davehodge davehodge is offline
 
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Default Christopher

I made my bridge pull down towards me which pulls the materials towards me and my permanent front fence also it keeps the material close to you and moves your saw back towards you as you lower the track. I havenít ever had a problem with the material moving in this configuration. Iím using 3/4Ē melamine for my tops. Not sure if this would help you or not ? Dave
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  #12  
Old 04-30-2018, 05:10 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Originally Posted by davehodge View Post
I made my bridge pull down towards me which pulls the materials towards me and my permanent front fence also it keeps the material close to you and moves your saw back towards you as you lower the track. I havenít ever had a problem with the material moving in this configuration. Iím using 3/4Ē melamine for my tops. Not sure if this would help you or not ? Dave
Dave, if the material pushed toward me, that would help a lot. no need for a moving fence -- could just mount it to my SME just like the bridge.

How did you modify your bridge movement to pull towards you?

Thanks
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  #13  
Old 04-30-2018, 07:40 PM
davehodge davehodge is offline
 
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Default Christopher

I cut the bottom off the bridge bracket so the handle would clear past it.
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Last edited by davehodge; 04-30-2018 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Typo
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  #14  
Old 04-30-2018, 09:25 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Originally Posted by tofu View Post
Hey Rick,


Do you suggest just running a bolt from the center of the new t-track right through the b2b's bottom half? Maybe put a piece of wood to fill the b2b slot so i can run a long bolt through both sides without crushing it when i torque it down?
Yes, a few bolts should do the trick. If you go thru the bottom slot, yes, you will need something solid to fill the space where the bolt goes thru. Or, careful drilling should allow a bolt to go thru the B2B right at the web area, leaving both slots open for things to slide into while providing a solid backup to the bolt.
Rick
ps I don't have an EZ bridge set up at the moment, so I can't try out this theory, but I'm guessing you could install one of these 'handles' (see pic), or some other iteration, on the side of the bridge track, down at the far end of the bridge assembly and begin using that end w/the handle to raise and lower the bridge. Doing it that way would allow the lowered bridge/track to pull the material towards you.
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Last edited by bumpnstump; 04-30-2018 at 09:31 PM.
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  #15  
Old 04-30-2018, 09:28 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Originally Posted by davehodge View Post
I cut the bottom off the bridge bracket so the handle would clear past it.
I see what you mean. in my situation, the arms from the other side hit the table. I suppose I can raise the bridge some more, but even so, it's an awkward range of motion. I'll give it a try since I don't have to cut anything. The bottom piece that hits the handle on my bridge is just screwed on

thanks!
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  #16  
Old 04-30-2018, 09:28 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Originally Posted by bumpnstump View Post
Yes, a few bolts should do the trick. If you go thru the bottom slot, yes, you will need something solid to fill the space where the bolt goes thru. Or, careful drilling should allow a bolt to go thru the B2B right at the web area, leaving both slots open for things to slide into while providing a solid backup to the bolt.
I didn't know the b2b was strong enough to drill it right through the center. That makes alignment easier. I was just worried it might bend and fall apart if i do that 3-4 times across a 48" span. Thanks!
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  #17  
Old 04-30-2018, 11:04 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
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Originally Posted by bumpnstump View Post
ps I don't have an EZ bridge set up at the moment, so I can't try out this theory, but I'm guessing you could install one of these 'handles' (see pic), or some other iteration, on the side of the bridge track, down at the far end of the bridge assembly and begin using that end w/the handle to raise and lower the bridge. Doing it that way would allow the lowered bridge/track to pull the material towards you.
That's another idea. I sometimes just grab the track and lower it down instead of using the handle, so i can hold the wood in position while lowering the bridge.

As of now, i'm set on doubling up the b2b with 8020 bolted to the side. They have a lot of connector accessories that i'd like to mess around with in the future. It's a shame EZ connectors are too wide for the 8020, or i'd just replace the b2b with it instead of adding extra weight.
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  #18  
Old 04-30-2018, 11:54 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Something to bear in mind is that the fence located on the far side of the table - the same layout as a radial arm saw - acts as a stop for the force of the saw blade pushing the part in that direction while cutting - and I believe that Dino mentioned this in a recent post as being one of the original EZ design concepts.
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  #19  
Old 05-01-2018, 03:37 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Always seemed odd to me that on the EZ Power Benches and then the EZ-1 the motion of the track with the B300 and the saw blade rotation is trying to move the material away from the fence. Seems backwards. I understand why they did it that way, it's easier, still seems backwards.
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  #20  
Old 05-01-2018, 05:44 PM
davehodge davehodge is offline
 
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Default Sean

I have two b-300 and I made both pull towards me. My son also made his pull towards him and neither of us ever have material move on us ! We both have cabinet shops so they are used a lot . My son uses a dewalt tract saw on his e-z track, he made his own base for it. I have a couple Milwaukee saws I use on mine.
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