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Old 01-26-2014, 05:02 PM
sdjsdj sdjsdj is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Upper Midwest
Posts: 32
Default My first EZ project a medicine cabinet

Ok, so I received my new base and UEG. After purchasing the EZ items , I had no money left to buy wood. So I looked in my basement and found a 3' x 5' piece of oak plywood (that had been sitting there for 5 years. Also found a piece of unsurfaced 6" x 8' 4/4 Oak. So my challenge was to build a 4" x 20" x 24" medicine chest using mainly EZ methods. (I have got rid of my 2 TableSaws, jointer, dust collector and Compound Miter Saw, and Mortiser

I still have my battery powered 18V Ryobi tools, my Kreg Pocket Hole jig, my Hitachi C7BMR ($60 on sale at Lowes), Dewalt thickness planer, a handful of measuring tools, a handful of clamps, a small air compressor, 23g pin nailer, 18 gauge brad nailer/stapler, my "knock off B& D workmate, 2 HD "saw horses/toolstands", a 48" cutting guide (not EZ), a 24" cutting guide (not EZ), a Harbor Freight Tap and Die set as well as drill bits, some sanders, as well as a toolbox of assorted tools.

Using my homemade cutting station with 32" EZ track and some Rockler T-track and the UEG I had to do the following.
Straight Line Rip the plywood and 4/4 Oak, thickness plane using light passes (make the oak S4S using very light passes on the planer), make 1 1/2" face frame, cut the carcass pieces out the plywood, create 3/8" edgebanding out of oak for the shelves, drill the pocket holes, drill the shelf pins, create rabbets to assist in alignment/squareness of the carcass.

Really the project went pretty well. I wish I would have put a 1/8" rabbet on the face frame in order to square the carcass better.

Installing the "fin" in order to be aligned with the blade was a major distaster. I thought I had it right and it was off 1/8" of an inch. There is no way to adjust this other than re-drilling your saw. I decided to thin out the fin using a belt sander and even had to use a heat gun to try to "bend it into alignment". Not having the fin and plate adjustable is a major problem, but I will deal with it.

Here are some pictures. The project took me about 8 hours, but I think 1/2 of that time was just "re-orienting" myself to woodworking techniques and figuring out ways to "trap/clamp" my work for various steps.

Last edited by sdjsdj; 01-26-2014 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 01-26-2014, 05:25 PM
Ivanhoe Ivanhoe is offline
 
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Location: Tulare, CA
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I don't see any pics. Congrats on the project anyway!
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  #3  
Old 01-26-2014, 06:12 PM
sdjsdj sdjsdj is offline
 
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Uploading the pics. Hopefully these are viewable
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:16 PM
sdjsdj sdjsdj is offline
 
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Some more pics of the work in progress
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2014, 06:49 PM
sdjsdj sdjsdj is offline
 
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My work area and tools used
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  #6  
Old 01-26-2014, 07:02 PM
sdjsdj sdjsdj is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivanhoe View Post
I don't see any pics. Congrats on the project anyway!
Thanks. Pics are now posted.
Comments/suggestions for improvement are certainly welcome.

Last edited by sdjsdj; 01-26-2014 at 08:54 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2014, 02:02 AM
cut2cut cut2cut is offline
 
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Posts: 28
Default track

is your track attached to that sme? I dont see a bridge there????
How is the T track being used?
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  #8  
Old 01-27-2014, 10:51 AM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdjsdj View Post

Installing the "fin" in order to be aligned with the blade was a major distaster. I thought I had it right and it was off 1/8" of an inch. There is no way to adjust this other than re-drilling your saw. I decided to thin out the fin using a belt sander and even had to use a heat gun to try to "bend it into alignment". Not having the fin and plate adjustable is a major problem, but I will deal with it.
Looking at the photo showing your saw mounted on the base, I see that the edge of the shoe is tight against the RH lip of the EZ base. You mention that the blade is offset to the fin by 1/8", but don't mention in what direction - is the fin offset to the left (towards the saw motor)?

I have the same saw, mounted on the EZ base and with the right edge of the shoe against the lip of the base, and the fin is offset ~1/8" (basically the thickness of the saw kerf) to the left. Someone recently mentioned that the inside face of the blade, with the saw mounted on the EZ base, should be 3" away from the inside edge of the groove in the base. I will check this dimension when I go out to the shop later today.

Tom
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2014, 12:13 PM
Burt Burt is offline
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Nice work. What kind of door do you plan to use? It is always interesting to see how everyone comes up with their own EZ solutions.


Burt
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2014, 12:28 PM
sdjsdj sdjsdj is offline
 
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Location: Upper Midwest
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burt View Post
Nice work. What kind of door do you plan to use? It is always interesting to see how everyone comes up with their own EZ solutions.


Burt
That is "undecided". I am toying with making a rail and stile door with safety glass insert, but will need to "price out" how much a custom cut piece will be. So far on this project, I have not "dug out" my router table, so I am trying to keep things EZ. Making a rail/style door with grooves and some type of "mortise/tenon" will be a challenge. It would be fun to try to do it with the SSRK, but at $200, that ain't gonna happen for a while.

Last edited by sdjsdj; 01-27-2014 at 12:39 PM.
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