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  #11  
Old 05-01-2014, 08:10 AM
jgowrie jgowrie is offline
 
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Location: Suffern, NY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sean9c View Post
If you don't have measuring tapes set up, having the keeper under the track the anti-chip edge marks your cut line. Keeper on the right you have to calc the blade kerf.
This is exactly why I don't get it. It's an extra step where you have to build a story stick before you can make a cut. And, the pictures from Dino are now outdated and the base insert is not as easy to remove as it was back when that black base was the standard. The black base actually had a tab you could grab to remove the insert.. for me, it's now a two hand operation because they removed the pull tab ( so it would work with the UEG I am guessing ) and you have to pry the front up with a flat bar or screw driver and then push it out from the middle of the base. Making removing it just to index the cut line a bit of a PIA. One of the main selling points of a track saw system is the cutline indexing.. I understand some folks may have a setup that differs from the stock setup so they may not use the ACE but if you do, cutting with good piece under the track seems to make life easier when using the cabinet maker or standard track..
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Last edited by jgowrie; 05-01-2014 at 08:13 AM.
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  #12  
Old 05-01-2014, 10:08 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Location: Jersey Shore (Not Seaside!)
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Just about all of the time my "good" is under the track. The only times I can think of lately that I've kept the material out from under the track has been on my bench when I've done repetitive cuts so I can use the "cuts" to space the parent material, or when I've done cuts longer then the bench size.
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2014, 01:07 PM
sean9c sean9c is offline
 
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Even with my old Bases with the insert with the pull tab I need to use a pair of pliers on the tab in order to get enough grip to pull the insert out. Also not the most convenient.
I've stuck with the ACE but I'm not sure why other than I'm too lazy to change. One thing that always surprises me is how much the ACE's shift in the track. I have worn out ACE's that miss the actual cut line by almost 1/32" but sometimes I'll shift a track or move something and then make a cut. Sure enough I smell burning plastic where the blade is hitting the ACE making it even shorter. IMO unless you keep replacing them, very often, they don't do a super accurate job of indicating the cut line. Also tired of my blade guard catching on the ACE when I slide my saw on the end of the track.
I need to get off my butt and to a system like Rick, Goblu and others

Quote:
Originally Posted by jgowrie View Post
This is exactly why I don't get it. It's an extra step where you have to build a story stick before you can make a cut. And, the pictures from Dino are now outdated and the base insert is not as easy to remove as it was back when that black base was the standard. The black base actually had a tab you could grab to remove the insert.. for me, it's now a two hand operation because they removed the pull tab ( so it would work with the UEG I am guessing ) and you have to pry the front up with a flat bar or screw driver and then push it out from the middle of the base. Making removing it just to index the cut line a bit of a PIA. One of the main selling points of a track saw system is the cutline indexing.. I understand some folks may have a setup that differs from the stock setup so they may not use the ACE but if you do, cutting with good piece under the track seems to make life easier when using the cabinet maker or standard track..
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  #14  
Old 05-01-2014, 06:49 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgowrie View Post
Sean,

I was very happy with the combo of UEG and Cabinet Maker together. I'm just always puzzled by how many users of the EZ system put the keeper piece off to the right of the blade...

I am going to order a longer piece of B2B because the repeater should be able to handle up to 48" of repeatability IMO. Just like the UEG can handle a minimum of 1/2 the width of a 4x8 sheet the Repeater should be able to handle 1/2 the length of the 4x8 sheet.
I've been following this thread with interest as I also don't see the benefit of cutting to the right of the track. As far as the longer piece of SME, I modified the Cabinet Maker as shown in the attached photos as I was never comfortable using the repeater - it just seemed a little too fussy for how I was trying to use it.. I have a square that is 48" long and made an adjustable stop for the outer end as shown. I also made a gauge that aligns the cut line with my pencil mark, also shown. Although I don't see myself cutting on the right side of the blade, the second scribe line on the cursor would be the right hand side of the blade.

In use, I mark the cut length, set the track in approximate position and then move it until the cursor line is over my pencil mark. If I'm only cutting a single part, I would then remove the gauge, slide the ACE back into position and then make the cut. If I'm making multiple parts, I'd move the stop up until it hits the left end of the plywood and lock it in place. A quick check that the track hasn't moved and I can remove the gauge and then proceed as above - except that I can slide the cut part out from under the track and then move the sheet to the left until it hits the stop and repeat.

I'm using the UEG and Cabinet Maker to break down sheets of plywood and wind up with the cabinet parts I need. I went with the 48" length of SME as that gets me close to being able to split a sheet in half but I will mostly be cutting to 34-1/2" for base cabinet sides and smaller as needed. In retrospect, I could have probably just bought a shorter section of SME and a piece of connector, but Murphy's Law would have had the joint right where I needed the stop.

The gauge seems a little overkill, but I'm able to adjust the position of the cursor to the block in case I would use it with a different saw - although the saw would have to use the same blade. But the cursor is fairly easy to make - a small piece of plexiglass with (2) countersunk holes in it so it would be fairly easy to knock out a couple of spares if I was using a different blade.

I didn't realize that there was a limit to the number of photos that could be inserted so I'll sent the rest in another message.

Tom
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  #15  
Old 05-02-2014, 03:37 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 245
Default Gauge and Stop for Cabinet Maker

Here are some more photos showing more details of the Stop and Gauge that I made for my modified Cabinet Maker.

The stop is probably overkill but I made it from bits and pieces that I had lying around. I wanted there to be no clearance in the attachment of the nylon "bumper" to the plate so drilled and tapped the center of the nylon rod and drilled the hole for the bolt undersize and hand reamed it until the body of the bolt was a light push fit in the hole - this way the position of the stop can't change even if it's bumped against the edge of the plywood panel.

The gauge is made to be adjustable so I used a small piece of t-track and made up an aluminum block that slides inside the track - this allows me to loosen the two screws and move the cursor as needed to line up with the kerf. At some point, I'm going to try to make a pad to mount to the underside of the saw base as some others have done and maybe do away with the ACE so this gauge will be needed to set the track relative to the cut line. I've used another brand of track for several years - bought based on a demonstration at the Woodworking Show - but switched over to EZ because of the lack of upgrades. As all I had was the track, my standard procedure was to square one end of the sheet and then mark both edges at the required length from the square end using a 36" steel scale with a moveable stop - this gave me identical layout marks on both sides of the sheet. I would then align the track with the pencil lines. I'm still doing this, except only marking the near edge of the sheet. The gauge allows me to move the CM until the cursor line is over the pencil mark and then set the stop against the edge of the plywood.

Next on my list is figuring out how to add a scale to the assembly, and then adding a cursor to the stop block. The problem is that the connection between the track and square is "loose" and may not give repeatability when tightening down the knobs. I have an idea that the fixed (non-slotted) hole on the square could be reamed out for a tight fit on a shoulder bolt to replace the all-thread and knob - this would eliminate any change in location of the track relative to the end of the square and make using a scale on the top of the square possible. The threaded end of the shoulder bolt would still be screwed into the section of connector but not Loctited; tightening the shoulder bolt would pull the section of connector tight in the track slot.

Tom
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