The Track Saw Forum  

Go Back   The Track Saw Forum > The Track Saw Forum > Rant, Rate, Rave & Review

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #21  
Old 03-19-2018, 12:11 PM
Dik Harrison Dik Harrison is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Evans, GA
Posts: 1,601
Default

When would you use the fence under the track?
__________________
Have fun...

Dik Harrison
Former Consultant to EurekaZone

Blog
YouTube
SketchUp Models
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 03-19-2018, 12:20 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 631
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dik Harrison View Post
When would you use the fence under the track?
I'd want to use it as a squaring fence and maybe have a stop ride along it. Then I wouldn't really require the parallel stop/fence that I drew in the previous post.

I had an idea for a sliding extension under the table that comes out like a drawer. This would work better with the perpendicular fence/stop so I don't have to always remove a parallel fence/stop when using the extension.
__________________
-Christopher

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 03-19-2018, 12:28 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 631
Default

The gentleman here made a similar perpendicular fence to what I had in mind. It looks like he has the same "under the track" issue.

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festoo...ft-3-ideas-for


I think the EZ original t-track is the thinnest extrusion available. Not sure how I'd neatly cut the "under the track" portion down to 1/4". Maybe just live with 1/2?
__________________
-Christopher

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 03-19-2018, 12:48 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 248
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tofu View Post
I'm trying to figure out a squaring fence perpendicular to the cut line. But my problem is reconciling how the fence goes under the track.

.
Why does the fence have to go under the track? If you're using the set-up primarily for cross-cutting, you really only need the fence to the left of the track. If the fence went under the track - ala Festool MFT - it still has to stop short of the cut line or you would wind up cutting off the track at the fence anyway.

Here is the original layout of my PBB. I mounted the fence on t-tracks a) so that I could square it to the track and b) so I could move it closer to me when cross-cutting narrower stock. After discussions with Dik Harrison, I realized that the fence made more sense on the other side of the part - like a radial arm saw if you will - so that the blade would push the material INTO the fence and help hold it in place. I just never modified the drawing to show the fence reversed.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf PBB Iso.pdf (32.2 KB, 50 views)

Last edited by tomp913; 03-19-2018 at 12:49 PM. Reason: typo
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 03-19-2018, 03:26 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 631
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Why does the fence have to go under the track? If you're using the set-up primarily for cross-cutting, you really only need the fence to the left of the track. If the fence went under the track - ala Festool MFT - it still has to stop short of the cut line or you would wind up cutting off the track at the fence anyway.

Here is the original layout of my PBB. I mounted the fence on t-tracks a) so that I could square it to the track and b) so I could move it closer to me when cross-cutting narrower stock. After discussions with Dik Harrison, I realized that the fence made more sense on the other side of the part - like a radial arm saw if you will - so that the blade would push the material INTO the fence and help hold it in place. I just never modified the drawing to show the fence reversed.
Makes sense, but I was thinking about if i need to rip a 40" 2x4 down the middle for whatever reason -- just cutting thin strips from thin stock in general. I wouldn't have any way to make the strips square and repeatable. I know i can use my UEG for something like this, but it's a lot easier to throw it on the table

I suppose for that rare occasion, I can just clamp a piece of wood or aluminum down. Would save a lot of headache trying to figure out a way to finesse a fence under the track.


edit: I think i see what you mean... Put the fence on the other side of my cut line. reverse my keeper and waste side so there's no need for a fence under the track?
__________________
-Christopher

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...

Last edited by tofu; 03-19-2018 at 03:29 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 03-19-2018, 03:33 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 268
Default

I am not 100% certain on this, but in that described situation, simply clamping the fence to the 2x4 might be the best and quickest method. The EZ clamps do a nice job of staying out of the way.

If you make it work for 40" then what will you do when you need 42" or 50" or the whole 96" 2x4?

Keeping with the argument, why not have fence or stop on the other side of the guide rail. When the videos of Dino making edge banding or repeatable strips shows using a "spacer" or a "master" he puts it up against the blade and then sets a stop or fence up against it and does the repeatable thing.

Sorry, been watching all the videos I can find lately, maybe I am off base.
__________________
-- Abs
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 03-19-2018, 03:42 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 631
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Absinthe View Post
I am not 100% certain on this, but in that described situation, simply clamping the fence to the 2x4 might be the best and quickest method. The EZ clamps do a nice job of staying out of the way.

If you make it work for 40" then what will you do when you need 42" or 50" or the whole 96" 2x4?

Keeping with the argument, why not have fence or stop on the other side of the guide rail. When the videos of Dino making edge banding or repeatable strips shows using a "spacer" or a "master" he puts it up against the blade and then sets a stop or fence up against it and does the repeatable thing.

Sorry, been watching all the videos I can find lately, maybe I am off base.
You're right. the easiest solution for this rare cutting need would really be to just clamp a thinner piece of wood down to use as a temporary fence. Sometimes it's better to just keep things simple.

I just have a strong desire to make everything integrated and overly complicated
__________________
-Christopher

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 03-19-2018, 03:44 PM
Absinthe Absinthe is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 268
Default

Sometmies we are so sure of the wrong answer that we can't see the right one.
__________________
-- Abs
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 03-19-2018, 05:52 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 631
Default

made the simple extension today. I won't need it often, but when i do, it'll be easy to deploy.

The bulk of the weight will be on the solid top, so i'm banking on the t-track arms not bending too much.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20180319_164556.jpg
Views:	75
Size:	105.8 KB
ID:	7343   Click image for larger version

Name:	20180319_164545.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	106.6 KB
ID:	7344   Click image for larger version

Name:	20180319_164609.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	99.3 KB
ID:	7345  
__________________
-Christopher

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 03-22-2018, 07:25 PM
tofu tofu is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: nyc
Posts: 631
Default

Mounted telescopic incra fence today. Very nice piece.

Ideally, I want to have it sliding using ridged connector on my b2b. I will attach .25" 2x2x12 aluminum angle to the ridged connector for rigidity, then mount the fence to the aluminum angle. For now, the fence is in a static position.

So, just need to throw on a flip stop and secure the sliding mechanism, and I think I'm done!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	20180322_181639.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	104.1 KB
ID:	7351   Click image for larger version

Name:	20180322_181652.jpg
Views:	65
Size:	100.1 KB
ID:	7352   Click image for larger version

Name:	20180322_181658.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	99.4 KB
ID:	7353  
__________________
-Christopher

*Disclaimer: I know what i'm talking about 50% of the time, every time...
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 09:26 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.