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Old 07-11-2016, 03:27 PM
deeraeya deeraeya is offline
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 17

Thanks all, great ideas.

For bed rails, placing the track on the workpieces (using the "door jig" I linked to earlier) and gang routing seems the way to go. For shorter things, routing down from the top seems spot on. I recently bought a 1/2 straight bit, while I had been using a 1/4 spiral up-cut bit and everything seems easier with the straight bit.

Personally I have trouble accurately repeating rabbets (ie distance from the end of a board). Laney's videos talk about "kissing the end of the board" but I have trouble accurately rotating the bit to the "widest" point, especially when squaring the track to a long edge. One thing I've thought of but haven't implemented is making a plunge into a piece of scrap then putting that on the bottom of the bit each time, then setting the workpiece against that. Should help getting a consistent rabbet depth.

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Old 07-11-2016, 05:49 PM
tomp913 tomp913 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 264

Originally Posted by deeraeya View Post
but I found it very frustrating to set the length of the tenon (end-to-shoulder), mostly because it is hard to find the exact edge of my spiral up-cut bit.

Any ideas welcomed
For an accurate set-up, consider buying a couple of short pieces of 1/4" and 1/2" diameter drill rod. These can be clamped in the router collet and used to establish the edge of the cut line and set the stops. Remove and replace with the appropriate bit and you should be good to go. As a check, first cut a dado with the bit that you're going to use and check the "fit" of the dowel rod in the groove - some router bits can/will cut slightly over or undersize for various reasons.
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