The Track Saw Forum  

Go Back   The Track Saw Forum > The Track Saw Forum > Display Case

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-25-2014, 08:03 PM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Default Multi-function table cart ez version

Here's a video I saw a while back about the MFTC which impressed me with its small size and portability. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5YzIwK-g0E

Then John Gowrie made one and posted here and made it seem more doable:
http://tracksawforum.com/showpost.ph...7&postcount=20

So I decided to try and ordered the plans (in metric sized for imperial dimensioned plywood-not imperial measurements for the parts). I had some SME that I got and never used, so I plan to use it around the edges of the top so I can incorporate eurekazone things with them. I thought I'd post the process here as it goes along.

I'm making two since I had a lot of scrap/salvage stuff that I wanted to use up and figuring out how to do a thing and setup is the most time consuming part. Plus gang cutting makes it even easier to cut most parts.
__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 07-25-2014 at 10:16 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-25-2014, 08:30 PM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Default Gang cutting parts

One of the advantages of the EZ One is gang-cutting parts. Here are some pictures of parts being cut to length. In the past I've used a miter saw and done one at a time for this process. Much more time consuming and less safe than the track saw with a setup like the EZ One.

Photo one shows parts lined up to be cut to length. In the back you can see a fence, an aluminum bar secured with two ez smart clamps. The distance between this and the saw cutline along the track (at bottom) is the length of the parts. On the left are some stops that trap the parts and keep them square. You could use the long stops instead. I checked to make sure this was all square so the parts would come out square. In this case it was easy to do.

Photo two shows The parts right after they've been cut. Since I use an insert in place of the ACE, you can see it more clearly.

Photo three shows the parts after cutting.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	parts lined up to be cut.JPG
Views:	472
Size:	91.2 KB
ID:	6343   Click image for larger version

Name:	after cutting.JPG
Views:	428
Size:	90.4 KB
ID:	6344   Click image for larger version

Name:	parts with cutoffs 2.JPG
Views:	463
Size:	99.6 KB
ID:	6345  
__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 07-25-2014 at 08:45 PM. Reason: add photos
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-25-2014, 09:18 PM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Default Jessem Mortise Mill for mortising legs and the ez one

One of the things that puzzled me was how to make the mortises in the eight legs (about 100 total). They are made from 2x4s milled to size. Pine is the recommended material to keep this light and portable. The mortises further help that cause. I wanted to make mortises instead of drilling holes and I have a barely-used Jessem Zip Slot Mortise Mill which uses a regular drill and a special bit to make mortises. If you watch the instructions and try it, it's not that easy to make a bunch of slots because of the clamping they use. Very slippy and awkward. (Why it's been barely used by me). This was a discontinued item when I got it, so why didn't it sell? I think the problem is that they never demonstrated/developed an adquate clamping system for it. Here's a video for anyone that's curious. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_VtVGnxlBrc It works pretty well once securing it is solved. The EZ One made it work really great! With little setup and effort.

It seemed ideal for this job if I could figure out how to secure it and also raise the leg to sit tight against the Mortise Mill. Instead of trying to secure it in the way they demonstrate, I secured the Mill to the EZ One side (SSME using the top slot) with some bolts and knobs. I could then "raise" the top by adding/shimming various thicknesses of wood under the leg. It made it quite easy and accurate. I just slid each leg to make a mortise, then slid it to make the next. Referencing off both surfaces of the mill made it very accurate and relatively quick. One secret (for any Jessem mortise mill users) is not to use the back and forth technique they demonstrate in their video but instead drill a series of holes 1/4 in apart then go back and forth a couple of times to clean the edges.

And hey, this is one place where it excelled over the Domino. I don't own a Domino but sometimes have use of one, however the Domino does not go deep enough to make these mortises, so you have to do one side, then the other. That doubles the number of mortises. The drill bit for the Jessem is quite long and does pretty deep mortises. I did have to do this on one dimension of the legs since the front legs are wider (thicker than the other dimensions.) The Domino of course has other areas where it excels.

Picture 1-Jessem mortise mill set up with leg under it. You can see the sacrificial wood that holds it tightly upward against the mortise mill. No fumbling with the clamps to get each one set up. It's backwards from the Jessem video demo, but that was not a problem and allowed the wood to be supported on the EZ One.
Picture 2- a better shot of how it's attached to the table with a finished leg next to it.
Picture 3-close up of attachment to the EZ One. You can see sacrificial ply with leg on top.
Picture 4-finished mortises in all eight legs (whew!)
Picture 5-side of leg showing mortises on both sides

Edited to add: Dust collection on the mortise mill is absolutely wonderful! Hardly any dust at all. One advantage over a router.

Another edit: I made one set of mortises too high on the leg. It's not on the hinge side, but next to it, so when it came time to route to inset the hinge, I realized it would be too weak. I just glued a loose tenon in it to stabilize the wood. Doesn't look pretty, but it works. So, if you make this, don't put mortises too high. Mine are longer than need be, and if I were doing it a again, I'd make them shorter. One disadvantage of not being tuned in to the metric system. I'm better at it now that I've made these mistakes.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	mortise mill setup.jpg
Views:	513
Size:	96.5 KB
ID:	6346   Click image for larger version

Name:	mortise mill attachment with leg.jpg
Views:	460
Size:	40.0 KB
ID:	6347   Click image for larger version

Name:	mortise mill attached to side rail of ez1.jpg
Views:	489
Size:	45.7 KB
ID:	6348   Click image for larger version

Name:	8 legs for 2 mftc.jpg
Views:	820
Size:	42.4 KB
ID:	6349   Click image for larger version

Name:	side of legs.JPG
Views:	393
Size:	103.0 KB
ID:	6350  

__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 08-09-2014 at 01:39 AM. Reason: add photos
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-25-2014, 11:37 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Austin, Tx.
Posts: 900
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goblu View Post
It works pretty well once securing it is solved. The EZ One made it work really great! With little setup and effort.

It seemed ideal for this job if I could figure out how to secure it and also raise the leg to sit tight against the Mortise Mill. Instead of trying to secure it in the way they demonstrate, I secured the Mill to the EZ One side (SSME using the top slot) with some bolts and knobs. I could then "raise" the top by adding/shimming various thicknesses of wood under the leg. It made it quite easy and accurate. I just slid each leg to make a mortise, then slid it to make the next. Referencing off both surfaces of the mill made it very accurate and relatively quick.
Katie...... I'm worn out just looking at all of those mortises! Glad it was you drilling 'em, and not me.....

Neat jessem jig- I'd not seen that before. I see what you mean re. the clamping- not the best, but it looks like you easily fixed that. The harder part, for me, would have been getting the leg material up where it was supposed to be. At about 2:20 in the vid, there's a great shot of the area where the material goes. In that shot, it shows 4 slots for bolt heads..... perhaps you could build a small, adjustable 'table' to attach to the lower slot(s) that would allow you to quickly place new material in place and hold it there while you did a firmer clamp? Or, something along those lines.

Looks like you've got a head of steam going re. this project; thanks for the pictorial progress report- I look forward to the final product.
Rick
ps great write-ups, too; the attention to detail is nice....
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-26-2014, 12:49 AM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bumpnstump View Post
Katie...... I'm worn out just looking at all of those mortises! Glad it was you drilling 'em, and not me.....

Neat jessem jig- I'd not seen that before. I see what you mean re. the clamping- not the best, but it looks like you easily fixed that. The harder part, for me, would have been getting the leg material up where it was supposed to be. At about 2:20 in the vid, there's a great shot of the area where the material goes. In that shot, it shows 4 slots for bolt heads..... perhaps you could build a small, adjustable 'table' to attach to the lower slot(s) that would allow you to quickly place new material in place and hold it there while you did a firmer clamp? Or, something along those lines.
Yes, I don't want to give up on it. It is one of the most beautifully machined things you ever saw. Completely aircraft grade aluminum, wonderful precision, things fit together perfectly, great scales, etc. excellent repeatability. Amazing dust collection. Built to last forever.

I like the idea of a sliding table, I thought of something like a bridge that moves up and down. I did some shimming of sacrificial boards on top of my EZ one and that worked for this project, but a table would be even more versatile. Though I'd want the table to clamp slightly, too, since that keeps it from sliding around even after clamping, which was one of the problems. The downward/sideways pressure on the drill with nothing under it. Maybe something like a bridge.

For the vertical pieces, if I ever want to use it for mortise and tenon joinery, I'd need to figure that out, too. Jessem will likely to continue to offer drill bits, etc. from what I understand.

Yeah, the 100+ mortises built some upper arm strength (aka sore muscles) from holding the drill and clamping . I liked the idea of building two of these tables with gang cutting and all, but began to question the wisdom of this half way through the mortise drilling.

I have the carcases in a different location, with finish/paint drying on them. When I go there, I'll get pictures and make another post. I've cut plywood sides for the top, now to figure out how to assemble them so I can attach the SME extrusions and they will still fold up like they are supposed to.
__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 07-26-2014 at 02:16 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-29-2014, 10:57 PM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Wink Ironing the wood

Do you iron your wood with a steam iron?

I tried this, which I'd read about and wanted to try. I used a steam iron on the legs with all the mortises to get out some of the dents caused by clamps. Pine is really soft (spf 2x4's)!

I took pictures of one example where it worked well and a second where it didn't work as well, but improved things slightly. Kind of hard to see the dents. The first pic is a steam iron sitting on the wood. I didn't leave it on the wood for the process, just so I could take a pic. It goes quickly, you don't have to hold it still over the dents for very long if at all. I'll try this on better pieces now that I've experimented and can see it didn't damage the wood or even raise the grain. I think it kind of smoothed out the wrinkles in the wood . Probably depends on the type of wood though.

No one irons much anymore, so anyone could find a used iron in good condition. I mostly use this iron for veneer shelf edging, but don't add any steam for that.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 1.jpg
Views:	325
Size:	35.6 KB
ID:	6362   Click image for larger version

Name:	before1.JPG
Views:	293
Size:	92.3 KB
ID:	6363   Click image for larger version

Name:	after1.jpg
Views:	278
Size:	33.2 KB
ID:	6364   Click image for larger version

Name:	before2.JPG
Views:	270
Size:	78.5 KB
ID:	6365   Click image for larger version

Name:	after2.JPG
Views:	293
Size:	84.7 KB
ID:	6366  

__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 07-29-2014 at 11:00 PM. Reason: add pictures
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-29-2014, 11:18 PM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Default Carcases

So here are the carcases. I'm making two of these since I had lots of scrap I wanted to use and wanted two. One is painted, that's the one with the worst wood. It's a gray color, though looks blue in the picture. Still to get a second coat. The other has shellac and I plan to use a clear finish on it. Probably some spar varnish.

The paint is aqua borne ceramic paint by Graham, and highly recommended. You can use the interior flat paint on walls and scrub them and it stays put, looks like new. Most of my interior uses this paint. This is interior/exterior semi-gloss enamel which I have on an exterior door. Holds up really well. (as usual, this is salvage paint, normally costs a bundle-like $70 or more/gallon, but if you're not too picky about the color it's $5/gallon in the mistint section). I go for the neutrals, and this is a bit dark but still ok.

The "ears" sticking up in the back will hold the pivot for the table to swing up and down. The square pieces in front on top will house the handles. There are lots of openings to cut down on the weight. These really are quite light. The openings also make it easy to clamp and paint. I got the wheels yesterday and they are heavy. Should help anchor the cabinets.

Thought I'd add the link for Graham Aqua Borne ceramic paint. Looks like they guarantee their house paint for as long as you own the house.
http://www.grahampaint.com/core.htm
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 4.jpg
Views:	410
Size:	31.9 KB
ID:	6367   Click image for larger version

Name:	photo 1.jpg
Views:	323
Size:	36.7 KB
ID:	6368  
__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 07-29-2014 at 11:37 PM. Reason: add link for paint
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:12 PM
Vondoom88 Vondoom88 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Nowheresville, IL
Posts: 278
Default

Looks good so far! Very much looking forward to watching your progress on these. One question do the plans also include plans for the support table extensions ? The grayish things in the pic below.

__________________
Mark R.
Northern IL.
SGS 64" W/ Miter square. Ripsizer, SSRK, B-100 & STK 36", 24" tracks & a EZ-One ...... so far + a UEG!!
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-09-2014, 12:36 AM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Default

Hi Mark,

Yes, the extension table plans are included. It is a great design and I'm happy with what I have done so far. I'm still thinking about ways to use the extensions, etc. I'm not going to make them with sacrificial strips per the plans, since I already have that via eurekazone.

The plans have been tricky for me. A few reasons why.

1. Except for using imperial measurements for plywood dimensions, (1/4", 1/2", 3/4", 4'x8', etc.) all the measurements are in metric. I do have a metric/imperial measuring tape, but it's still a challenge. I've made a few mistakes, minor luckily, because I messed up measurements. So, refer to the plans 4 times, convert to imperial 3 times, measure twice, cut once, or something like that. Do a lot of checking, in other words. I do think metric is a superior system, with better accuracy. It's just not intuitive for me.

2. I changed some of the dimensions to fit the Bosch x-boxxes instead of festool boxes, since I have several of those that came with tools. This changing makes the imperial-metric conversion more difficult.

3. Finding things a few things that are available in Europe but not readily available in the US is also tricky. I'll post the things I found in case anyone else might find this useful.
__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 08-09-2014 at 01:44 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-09-2014, 01:14 AM
Goblu Goblu is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 475
Default Wheels, hinges, extending feet, and changes

I'll add to this list if I think of anything else, so check back if you plan to make this and want ideas.

Wheels--I used 8 inch harbor Freight wheels. The ones I used enabled me to use 1/2" bolts with 3 washers and locking nuts instead of having to deal with Festool axles, etc. If I find the wood is wearing unevenly, I plan to strengthen the wood holes with epoxy. Here's the HF wheels I used:
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...eel-40598.html

These did not get good reviews, but I got them anyway, since I mainly just want to use them to position the table in a work area and they won't get much mileage. HF has some others, so worth a look.

Adjustable Leveling Legs--I used these levelers from woodcraft. http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...rs-4-pack.aspx You can also make your own using hockey pucks and parts similar to those from woodcraft. I found out about this after getting the woodcraft ones. The advantage would be using a 1/2" or larger bolt instead of the 3/8". below are links to plans for that in case you want to try it. I may try them sometime for other shop furniture.

The legs for the carts did not blow out as I drilled for these legs but one of the extension table legs did. I did start out with a small bit and increased the bit size in small increments. However, the 1/2" hole for the t-nuts I actually used my tap/drill kit for metal. It was much less aggressive than the 1/2" drill bit. I was using a hand drill and clamping it carefully. I used superglue for the knock in t nuts. I'm planning on using longer prong t nuts on the extension table, but still gluing them in. It's pine end grain you are knocking them into, so needs some reinforcement.

Here are a couple links to making your own levelers.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Heav...-on-the-Cheap/
http://dans-woodshop.blogspot.com/20...t-mark-ii.html

I got my hinges at ACE hardware locally. They are called backflap hinges and were all I could find that were 1 1/2" wide, about the width of the legs, and long enough to be sturdy (about 2 1/2") They don't have them listed on the site or I'd leave a link. I didn't see anything at Lowe's, Home Depot, True Value etc. You don't need a backflap hinge, it's just that was the only one that was the right size.
__________________
Katie

Last edited by Goblu; 08-09-2014 at 01:27 AM.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
gang cutting, jessem mortise mill, multi function table cart

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -3. The time now is 05:04 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.