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  #11  
Old 02-24-2013, 12:10 PM
Jeff Freelove Jeff Freelove is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 147
Default Floor plan to be modified

I sent this plan to the architect as the base idea. He will scale it down to 32'x24', remove interior walls, and change the overhead door to 10'x10'.

In the past, a hard-wired Unisaw would have been the center of the shop. Lots of current shop designs embrace that concept.

I think this one will work well with EZ and give me lots of options, if/when the wife's projects encroach.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Garage And Shop Plan .pdf (752.7 KB, 270 views)

Last edited by Jeff Freelove; 02-24-2013 at 12:15 PM. Reason: fat fingers
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2013, 10:53 PM
KurtW KurtW is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Kendallville, Indiana
Posts: 47
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Good Luck Jeff should be a great shop!

I build a 28 x 40 Garage at my old house back in 1998. Lost most of my investment in the garage after I was forced to sell and move to Indiana for work in 2006. Good think I didnít have to pay anybody to build it. Beer and burgers is what I was charge by my buddies to help build it.

This time Iím doing it a lot smaller Iíve finished off part of my basement for a shop. I just got all the lights hung (could almost get a tan from them). I was going to put a ceiling in but hell itís a shop, so I stapled sheet foam into the box joists to isolate the shop from the rest of the basement. Iím now ready to start moving my tools in and start making dust. If I look real close I can imagining a brand new EZ-one power bench with a new EZ-Saw right in the middle of the shop.


Kurt

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  #13  
Old 02-27-2014, 10:04 AM
Jeff Freelove Jeff Freelove is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 147
Default New floor plan

Howdy, The slab was poured in August. Now I'm just waiting on the HOA to approved the plans and start con$truction.

Key points:
1. it has to match the existing home exterior - 3 sides brick and stone
2. the 6/12 pitch allows the rafters to be framed with knee walls and an area to store wood.
3. Only the bathroom will have interior walls at this time. Still have to figure lout the flow.

Questions:
1. Outlet height for a shop? What works best?
2. I'm thinking of running 220v every 4'-6' with two hots and a ground to a 4 plex box. It can be either 220 or 110 outlets. Suggestions?
3. Any success with using clear curtains to close off a finishing area? Had to keep the overhead door for the HOA.
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File Type: pdf Freelove plan_11-12-12 FloorPlan (1).pdf (101.3 KB, 113 views)
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  #14  
Old 02-27-2014, 11:20 AM
philb philb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 156
Default Electrical suggestions

I am trained as an electrician, so for me it is a little easier. My suggestion for a shop is to use surface wiring. Conduit will run or drop in exactly the spot you want. I have never found in the wall wiring adequate for shop or commercial use. When you put the wiring in the wall you end up planning for where the outlet is and not for the best flow or position to use the machine. I run 220 when I need it, and 20 amp is the smallest 110 that I have. The larger circuit can be wired in for a lower cost on the surface than in the wall circuits. Frequently I really needed a drop outlet and in the wall is not possible. In my opinion, you end up putting everything everywhere if you are in the wall, just to account for where you might want something and not the reality of where it should go. You will be happier with surface conduit, surface mount in the long run. You have no idea what is ahead for your shop. A new piece of equipment, a change in work flow, even the change from hobbyist to professional will affect the wiring needs. Give yourself some breathing room and go with surface wire.

One more point on wiring. Home appliances are all of standard designs and use. you can wire in the wall for that type of space. Commercial equipment is designed for the task not the space it is sitting. That will change the rules of wire and plumbing placement depending upon what the equipment was designed to do.

I hope that helps in some way,
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  #15  
Old 02-27-2014, 01:34 PM
Jeff Freelove Jeff Freelove is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Round Rock, Texas
Posts: 147
Default Thanks !

Hey Phillip,

Thanks for your input on the surface mount circuits. That would certainly add flexibility to the design. In the past, I have wanted 220 where I only had 110v and this would do that too.

Thanks.

Last edited by Jeff Freelove; 03-01-2014 at 10:44 PM.
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  #16  
Old 02-27-2014, 02:34 PM
philb philb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 156
Default Another thought

Not sure what the codes are in your area, but you can save some cash by mounting the conduit, and outlet boxes yourself. Many electricians do not want to hang conduit on small jobs. You do the stuff that is drudgery and save the money. Hang the channel, pull the wire. You will need to get an idea as to what the codes are, but it is easier than you might suspect. An electrician that is going to button up for you can give you directions on conduit and wire size if you do not have any electrical training.

With surface mount, you can change parts or all of the wiring plan as you need or your needs change. For a shop -- surface is the smart choice -- if you have a choice.
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  #17  
Old 02-27-2014, 03:02 PM
bumpnstump bumpnstump is offline
 
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Location: Austin, Tx.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Freelove View Post
Hey Phillip,

Thanks for your input on the surface mount circuits. That would certainly add flexibility to the design. In the past, I have wanted 220 were I only had 110v and this would do that too.

Thanks.
Jeff, When I left Austin two years ago, I left behind two awesome electricians who worked with me on remodeling jobs- one's in Pflugerville; the other is in West Austin. If you want their contact info., contact me on my yah00 acct: bumpnstump at etc.
Rick
ps if you need any other vetted subs for your project, I'm still in touch w/the folks I used- they all do work in Georgetown.
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  #18  
Old 03-08-2014, 02:58 AM
bigjohn1 bigjohn1 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Ontario Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn View Post
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...9&site=ROCKLER These are the casters I use. They lock both ways, the swivel and the roll. I will take some picture tomorrow

Wow 43 bucks a corner I think I can push it around for that kinda money.
Wheels are great if you need them none of the EZ tools are really heavy.
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  #19  
Old 03-08-2014, 08:24 AM
TooManyToys TooManyToys is offline
 
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Location: Jersey Shore (Not Seaside!)
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That's for 4. I've got two sets, they are good.
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2014, 03:27 PM
bigjohn1 bigjohn1 is offline
 
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Location: Ontario Canada
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Thank god I saw one in the pic and the price.
Not bad if you want wheels for sure.
I find small wheels just a pain in the butt
for a smooth floor they are fine.
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